St. Stephen Church – one of the most significant monuments of Bulgarian cultural heritage in the Ancient Town of Nessebar
- Stefan Ivanov
- Mar 22
- 14 min read
Updated: Aug 8
The Church of St. Stephen, often called the "New Metropolis", is one of the most significant and well-preserved monuments of Bulgarian cultural heritage in the Old Town of Nessebar.
Located at the southern end of Old Nessebar, it is an integral part of the city's Architectural and Historical Reserve, which is included in the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage List.
Its significance extends far beyond its architectural beauty, making it a symbol of the city’s resilience and rich history.
St. Stephen’s Church – the Jewel of Nessebar
The uniqueness of the church is emphasized by the fact that today it functions entirely as a museum. No liturgies are held there and the lighting of candles is strictly prohibited – measures introduced in 1974 to preserve the extremely valuable and fragile frescoes, which represent the pinnacle of medieval art. This transformation from a functioning church into a museum space emphasizes the priority of preserving cultural heritage, providing access to this exceptional artistic treasure for the general public.
The name "New Metropolis", which accompanies the name "St. Stephen", is indicative of the deep historical and ecclesiastical significance of the temple. This title implies not just the construction of a new building, but a symbolic transfer of church power and spiritual significance. The term "Metropolis" itself denotes the main church of a metropolitan diocese, which points to a high ecclesiastical rank. The adjective "new" in the context of Nessebar, a city with a thousand-year history and numerous temples, clearly indicates continuity and replacement of an earlier, destroyed metropolitan cathedral - St. Sophia, called the Old Metropolis. This name immediately points to a deeper study of the role of the church as the successor to an important metropolitan center, which is a key thread in understanding its identity and significance in the ancient city.
The history of the Church of St. Stephen is complex and multi-layered, reflecting the centuries-old changes and events that have shaped the appearance of Nessebar. Its development is marked by several construction phases and a dramatic change in patronage, each of which has left its mark on its architecture and artistic appearance.
Initial construction and architectural phases
The initial construction of the Church of St. Stephen is dated to the 11th - 13th centuries, which positions it as an important monument from the heyday of the Bulgarian Middle Ages. This early period laid the foundations of a three-nave basilica, which would undergo significant transformations in the following centuries.
The architectural development of the church is not a one-time act, but rather a continuous process of adaptation and enrichment. In the 16th century, the building was extended to the west, which was probably dictated by growing needs or changes in liturgical practice.
Later, in the 18th century, the narthex was added, which further changed and enriched the spatial organization of the church. These successive expansions and additions are not just construction activities, but testify to the continuous importance of the church and to the efforts made to maintain and expand it over the centuries, even during periods of foreign rule.
Particularly significant are the reconstructions carried out in 1593 and 1599 under the patronage of Metropolitan Christopher. These large-scale activities are directly related to the creation of the remarkable frescoes, which today represent the main artistic value of the church. The completion of the frescoes in 1599 was the culmination of this period of renovation, demonstrating significant investment in the artistic and spiritual enrichment of the church.
An additional, third construction period, including the construction of a third narthex, was noted in 1712, which indicates that the church was the subject of constant care and development. This pattern of continuous modifications and artistic renewal emphasizes the enduring importance of the church and the constant efforts to maintain its grandeur.
Change of patronage and continuity
One of the most interesting aspects of the history of the church of "St. Stephen" is the change of its patronage. Initially, the church was dedicated to the Most Holy Theotokos, bearing the name "Holy Theotokos Life-Giving Spring". This initial dedication also explains the subject matter of a large part of the preserved frescoes, which depict scenes from the life of the Mother of God.
The dramatic name change to "St. Stephen" occurred in 1855. This change was not accidental, but was caused by a tragic event - the collapse into the sea of the old church of "St. Stephen", which was located at the easternmost tip of the Nessebar peninsula. In order to preserve the continuity of the city's metropolitan status and the veneration of the saint, the icon of St. Stephen, along with parts of his relics, were transferred to the then metropolitan church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which then adopted the new name.
This name change, triggered by the physical loss of another church, represents more than a simple nominal change; it is a deeply symbolic transfer of sacred space and metropolitan authority. This act emphasizes the resilience of religious institutions in the face of natural disasters and their ability to provide spiritual continuity for the community. This also explains the apparent paradox that magnificent frescoes dedicated to the life of the Virgin Mary are located in a church named after St. Stephen. This layering of historical narratives within the same monument offers a unique insight into the continuous spiritual life of the city.
Timeline
11th – 13th century – initial construction
16th century – extension to the west
1593 – reconstruction by Metropolitan Christopher
1599 – completion of the frescoes; reconstruction by Metropolitan Christopher
18th century – addition of a narthex
1712 (early 18th century) – painting of the "Last Judgment" scene; third narthex built
1855 (19th century) – renaming to "St. Stephen" (after the collapse of the old church)
1927 – declared a national monument (during the reign of Tsar Boris III)
1964 – became a cultural monument of national importance
1974 – converted into a museum of antiquity (liturgies ceased)
This chronological line is extremely valuable, as it provides a concentrated and easily accessible overview of the key stages of the church's history. It allows the researcher and any interested reader to quickly trace the evolution of the temple from its initial construction, through the various expansions and reconstructions, to the change of name and its official recognition as a cultural monument and museum. Such a systematization of data is essential for understanding the cause-and-effect relationships and the overall development of the site over the centuries.
Architecture - a three-nave basilica with a rich past
The architecture of the Church of St. Stephen is a classic example of a medieval three-nave basilica, which has undergone numerous changes and additions, reflecting different construction periods and stylistic influences.
In its plan, the church is a three-nave basilica, which is a traditional architectural type widespread in the Christian world during the Middle Ages. This type of building is characterized by the presence of a central nave and two side aisles, separated by colonnades or pillars. The dimensions of the church are approximately 12 meters long and 9.50 meters wide. These proportions are typical of churches of this period and provide an impressive, yet harmonious interior space.
One of the distinctive structural features of the church is that the central nave rises significantly above the side aisles. This creates a feeling of spaciousness and vertical aspiration inside the church. The central nave is crowned on the east and west with oval pediments, which contribute to the aesthetics of the facade and give the building a characteristic silhouette.
Originally, the church did not have a narthex (vestibule), but over time, a 5.60-meter-long extension was added to its western end, effectively serving as a narthex. This addition is part of the evolution of the church and its adaptation to changing needs and architectural trends over the centuries.
The Church of St. Stephen is built of solid stone blocks and bricks, typical of medieval construction in the Nessebar region. The use of these traditional materials has ensured the durability of the structure over the centuries.
A particularly interesting and significant aspect of the construction is the extensive reuse of numerous architectural elements, known as spolia. Cornices, capitals and reliefs from previously demolished Christian buildings were incorporated into the walls of the church. This practice was common for its time and reflected both a pragmatic economy of resources and a deep sense of continuity.
The use of spolia is not simply a pragmatic construction technique, but a deeply symbolic act. By physically incorporating elements from older, destroyed Christian buildings, the "New Metropolis" visually and tangibly connects to the ancient and early Christian history of Nessebar. This action embodies the continuity of sacred space and tradition, showing that even after the destruction, the spiritual heritage was preserved and integrated into the new structures. Among these reused materials, part of a stone inscription was discovered, which tells of the reconstruction of the city by the Byzantine emperors Basil, Leo and Alexander. This inscription further strengthens the connection of the church with the imperial history of Mesembria and testifies to the city's long history of destruction and reconstruction. Thus, the very structure of the building tells a story of continuous habitation and veneration of the place, despite the vicissitudes of time.
Main architectural features
Plan type – three-nave basilica
Dimensions (length x width) – 12.10 meters x 9.50 meters
Naves – rises above the side aisles, crowned with oval pediments on the east and west
Naves – added in the 18th century; western extension 5.60 meters long
Building materials – stone blocks and bricks
Reused elements (spolia) – cornices, capitals, reliefs from previously destroyed Christian buildings; part of a stone inscription for the restoration of the city
This information systematizes complex architectural data in a clear and comparable format. It allows for a quick perception of the key characteristics of the building, including its type, dimensions and unique structural details.
Artistic value – frescoes, iconostasis and interior
The artistic wealth of the Church of St. Stephen is its greatest value, turning it into a museum of medieval art. The frescoes, iconostasis and other interior decorations testify to the high craftsmanship and deep spirituality of the era.
The frescoes in the Church of St. Stephen were completed in 1599, as explicitly noted in a founding inscription located above the southern door of the nave. They cover the inner walls of the church, offering a complete and impressive visual narrative. There are also frescoes on the outer walls of the church.
Thematically, the frescoes are mainly related to the life of the Mother of God, which is a direct reflection of the original dedication of the church to the Most Holy Theotokos. In total, over 1,000 figures are depicted, distributed in 258 compositions, which is an exceptionally large number for such a church. Among them are detailed scenes of the miracles of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, presented in a whole series according to and in full accordance with the Gospels.
One of the most impressive scenes is the "Last Judgment", painted on the eastern wall of the narthex in a traditional iconography for the early 18th century, dating from 1712.
Despite the high artistic value and scale of the work, the names of the authors of the frescoes remain unknown. However, upon careful analysis, the hand of at least three masters is recognized: two worked in the eastern part of the nave, and a third in the western. This division of labor indicates an organized approach to the painting of the temple.
In addition to the frescoes, the church of St. Stephen also preserves other original and valuable interior decorations. The iconostasis is painted and dates from the late 16th century, and is distinguished by its original style. Its architraves and plinth panels are decorated in a characteristic oriental style called Tulip, which reflects cultural influences of the period.
The presence of the Tulip style on the iconostasis, as well as the detailed description of the 18th-century carved throne and pulpit, reveal the syncretic nature of post-Byzantine art in the Balkans, especially during the Ottoman period. This is not a simple continuation of Byzantine traditions, but represents a complex integration of local craftsmanship with contemporary Ottoman decorative motifs. This artistic fusion reflects the complex cultural interactions of the period and adds a unique layer to the aesthetic identity of the church. It shows how art adapted and flourished, preserving its spiritual depth while incorporating new stylistic elements, even in a new political and cultural context.
The carved bishop's throne and pulpit date from the late 18th century. They attract attention with their shallow carving of large plant motifs and with oval painted fields, executed in gilding and polychromy, demonstrating high craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Thanks to its highly artistic frescoes, original iconostasis and well-preserved architectural appearance, the Church of St. Stephen is one of the most significant monuments of Bulgarian cultural heritage.
Status – a cultural monument and part of the UNESCO World Heritage
The Church of St. Stephen is recognized at the highest national and international level for its exceptional contribution to cultural heritage. Its status as a cultural monument and part of the UNESCO World Heritage emphasizes its universal value and significance for humanity.
The church is an integral part of the Architectural and Historical Reserve of Ancient Nessebar, which is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. This recognition by the highest international organization for culture is proof of its exceptional value and makes it a key destination for cultural tourism in the country.
Its national significance was officially recognized as early as 1927, when during the reign of Tsar Boris III it was declared a national antiquity. Later, in 1964, its status was elevated to a cultural monument of national importance. These successive acts of recognition reflect the growing awareness of its historical and artistic value.
The inclusion of the Church of St. Stephen as an integral part of the site "Ancient Town of Nessebar" in the UNESCO World Heritage List underlines its universal value. This recognition refers not only to the individual architectural and artistic merits of the church, but also to its contribution to the wider cultural landscape of Nessebar, which uniquely combines terrestrial and underwater archaeological heritage.
This wider international recognition emphasizes the key role of the church in presenting the historical depth and cultural wealth of the entire peninsula, making it an essential component of a site of global significance.
Role in the preservation of cultural heritage
Since 1974, the Church of St. Stephen has functioned as an ancient museum, and since then no liturgies have been held in it. This measure was introduced in order to maximize the preservation of the valuable frescoes, which are extremely sensitive to moisture, candle smoke and other influences. Turning it into a museum is a strategic decision for the long-term preservation of its artistic content.
As one of the most visited sites in Old Nessebar, the church attracts over 50,000 tourists annually. This high number of visitors emphasizes not only its historical and artistic appeal, but also its important role in the promotion of Bulgarian cultural heritage and in the educational process. It serves as a living textbook on the history of art and architecture, providing direct access to medieval culture.
Restoration and conservation activities
The preservation of the Church of St. Stephen is an ongoing process, requiring constant restoration and conservation activities. The altar part of the temple has recently been restored, which now shines with its renewed appearance. The frescoes are also subject to constant care and restoration, as the humid air of the seaside town gradually causes their colors to fade. These efforts are of key importance for preserving the architectural and artistic integrity of the monument for future generations.
The Church of St. Stephen, also known as the "New Metropolis", is an exceptional monument of Bulgarian cultural heritage, embodying the rich and multi-layered history of Ancient Nessebar. Its historical development, marked by construction in the 11th-13th centuries and subsequent expansions and reconstructions, reveals continuous care and investment in maintaining its grandeur. The change of patronage, caused by a natural disaster, is not just a nominal change, but a deeply symbolic action that ensures the continuity of the metropolitan authority and the spiritual heritage of the city.
Its architectural appearance of a three-aisled basilica, built of stone blocks and bricks, and especially the use of the remains of older buildings, tells a story of continuity and stability over the centuries. The artistic value of the temple is undeniable, mainly thanks to the magnificent frescoes from 1599, depicting the life of the Mother of God, as well as the original iconostasis and carved interior elements. These works of art are a testament to the high level of craftsmanship and cultural interactions, including the influence of the oriental Tulip style during the period of Ottoman rule.
The church’s recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site underscores its universal value and significance for humanity. Its function as a museum, with strict measures in place to preserve the frescoes, demonstrates a conscious approach to preserving this priceless heritage for future generations.
The Church of St. Stephen is more than an architectural structure; it is a living witness to the millennial history of Nessebar, its spiritual power, and the enduring bond between culture, faith, and community. It remains a cornerstone of Bulgarian cultural heritage and a constant reminder of the city’s rich past.
In 1927, the Church of St. Stephen was declared a national monument.
In 1964 and 1967, the church of St. Stephen was declared an architectural, construction and artistic monument of culture with a category of national importance.
Nessebar - a journey through time, embraced by the sea and whispering stories
Sometimes we need to stop for a moment, leave the hectic everyday life behind us and immerse ourselves in an atmosphere where time has stopped.
Ancient Nessebar is just such a place.
Situated on a small, rocky peninsula, connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land, this city is like a treasure trove, protected by the waves of the Black Sea.
Nessebar is located:
412 kilometers (about 3 hours and 59 minutes by car) from the capital
277 kilometers (about 2 hours and 55 minutes by car) from the city of Plovdiv
100 kilometers (about 1 hour and 48 minutes by car) from the city of Varna
35 kilometers (about 36 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
The ancient town of Nessebar is a living museum. Here, antiquity, every ruin, every paved street and every ancient house carry the spirit of bygone eras.
As soon as you pass the old mill, you will be greeted by a labyrinth of cobblestone streets that wind between old houses with characteristic wooden facades and flower gardens.
The air is filled with the scent of the sea and history.
Don't miss the over 40 churches that whisper stories of the greatness of Byzantium, and feel how history intertwines with the sea. Some of them are ruins, others are perfectly preserved, but all of them are witnesses to the greatness of the Byzantine Empire and the Middle Ages.
But Nessebar is not just a museum. It is a living city that breathes in unison with the sea. Allow yourself to get lost in the narrow streets, browse the small shops with handmade souvenirs and sit in a cozy restaurant with a view of the sea.
In the evening, when the sun sinks into the sea waters and the city lights reflect on the calm surface, Nessebar becomes a magical place that will leave a lasting impression in your heart.
Come and feel the magic of time in Ancient Nessebar!
Surrender to the charm of the wooden houses perched above the cliffs and let the wind tell you about the ancient seafarers.
In the evening, when the sun reflects in the sea, Nessebar turns into a magical place.
Visit Old Nessebar and touch eternity - here time simply stops.
How do you get to the Church of St. Stephen?
The Church of St. Stephen is located in the southwestern part of the Old Town of Nessebar.
I advise you to leave your car in the large northern municipal parking lot (a parking fee is required). You climb some of the numerous steps leading to "Kraibrezhna" street and along one of the numerous narrow cobblestone streets you head to the southwestern part of the Old Town of Nessebar.
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