The place of the Church of St. Spas in the cultural memory of Nessebar
- Stefan Ivanov
- Mar 12
- 9 min read
Updated: 3 days ago
Ancient Nessebar is an exceptional example of a cultural phenomenon that has preserved a multi-layered history spanning more than two millennia.
In 1983, the city was declared an architectural and archaeological reserve, and its cultural monuments were included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
It is no coincidence that Nessebar is called the Bulgarian Ravenna or a living encyclopedia of Christian church construction, as over 44 churches dating from the 5th to the 19th centuries have been discovered there.
These buildings are not just architectural monuments, but have played a key role as centers of spiritual and cultural life.
During the Middle Ages, many of them were centers of writing, education, and the development of sacred art, commissioned by wealthy merchants and nobles. This spiritual and cultural wealth was strongly influenced by the Byzantine and Bulgarian architectural tradition.
This unique concentration of temples from different eras allows us to trace the evolution of Bulgarian and Byzantine architecture and painting. Among these monuments, both the monumental basilicas of the early Christian era such as "Hagia Sophia" and the exquisite churches of the Middle Ages such as "St. John the Baptist" and "Christ Pantocrator" stand out.
Against this rich background, the Church of St. Spas occupies a special place. Built in the early 17th century, it is one of the few surviving Christian churches erected during the Ottoman rule. Its modest external architecture, which contrasts sharply with its richly decorated interior, makes it an emblematic witness to the historical conditions and the efforts to preserve faith and cultural identity in a complex and oppressive period.
"St. Spas" in the early 17th century
The Church of St. Spas was built in 1609, which is established by a preserved donation inscription located above the southern entrance of the church. The inscription provides valuable details, revealing that the construction was financed by a wealthy Nessebar citizen named Theodokis Cappadocia, during the hierarchy of Metropolitan Cyprian. The financial provision by a wealthy local resident is indicative that the modest appearance of the church was not dictated by a lack of funds, but by strict historical and political circumstances.
During the Ottoman rule, the construction of new Christian churches was severely restricted or even prohibited, and when it was permitted, strict architectural requirements were imposed. Evidence shows that "St. Spas" is the only Christian church built in Nessebar in 1609. In order not to attract the attention of the Ottoman authorities, the building was erected with a pronounced asceticism and functionality. It was hastily built with semi-rafter construction, of stones and mud, it had a wooden roof, no dome or bell tower, and its windows were small. A particularly telling detail is that its eastern facade was half dug into the ground. These features are not simply architectural features, but a direct physical manifestation of the historical restrictions imposed by the ruling authority. The modest, partially dug-in appearance was a prerequisite for the legal existence of the church, symbolizing a state of resigned external simplicity, which is in sharp contrast to the internal life and wealth preserved by the community.
The history of the church is uniquely intertwined with that of another significant artifact that was stored in it.
Chronology of events related to the Church of "St. Spas"
1441 - the death of Princess Mataisa Kantakouzena - a Byzantine princess, betrothed to the Bulgarian Tsar Michael Asen, rested in Nessebar and was buried in the Old Metropolis.
1609 - construction of the Church of "St. Spas" - the temple was built with donations from the wealthy citizen Theodokis Cappadocia during the Ottoman rule.
17th century (early) - painting of the church by an unknown Nessebar icon painter, who painted the entire interior of the temple.
Period of the Ottoman rule - moving the tombstone of Mataisa from the Old Metropolis to "St. Spas" and embedding it in the floor to protect it from destruction.
1983 – Nessebar is included in the UNESCO List and receives the status of a World Heritage Site.
Currently – "St. Spas" has been turned into a museum, and the princess's tombstone is exhibited in the Nessebar Archaeological Museum.
Simplicity of form, dictated by time
The architectural plan of the "St. Spas" church is a single-nave and single-apse building.
Its dimensions are approximately 11.70 meters long and 5.70 meters wide. It is built of stones and mud, which defines it as a semi-solid construction. According to some reports, once a narrow and long narthex ran along the entire northern side, which made the width of the temple reach 9.80 meters.
Despite this external simplicity, dictated by the historical situation, the interior of the church reveals a completely different level of artistic and spiritual expression.
The painted decoration - spiritual wealth from the 17th century
The interior of the Church of St. Spas is in striking contrast to its external simplicity. The walls inside are covered almost entirely with frescoes from the beginning of the 17th century, the work of an anonymous Nessebar icon painter. This interior decoration is inspired and passionate and ranks among the best examples of church painting from the 16th - 17th centuries in Bulgaria.
The iconographic subjects include scenes from the Gospel, located on the southern and northern walls, with figures of saints depicted below them. The monumental scene "The Virgin Mary Broadening the Heavens with the Infant" is painted in the apse. The frescoes have been restored and are well preserved to this day.
This apparent dissonance between the external appearance and the internal decoration of the temple is not accidental. It is a powerful cultural and spiritual act. External simplicity is an external protection, a kind of camouflage against the oppressive power. But internal richness is the true focus of the spiritual life of the community. This shows that the collective energy and resources were directed not to what was visible to the outside world, but to the essence – to the spiritual decoration and preservation of the sacred relics. This contrast symbolizes the vitality and resilience of the Bulgarian identity and faith during the rule, telling a story of internal freedom achieved despite external oppression.
The fate of an artifact – the tombstone of Matthias Kantakouzenos Palaeologina
The Church of St. Spas is also known for preserving one of the most valuable historical artifacts in Nessebar – the tombstone of the Byzantine princess Matthias Kantakouzenos Palaeologina. The princess, who was engaged to and married the Bulgarian Tsar Michael Asen, died in 1441. Her tombstone, which was originally in the Old Metropolis, was moved to the Church of St. Spas by the Archbishop of Nessebar.
This act of relocation is indicative of the conscious efforts of the local community to preserve its history and cultural values. Sources specify that the slab was embedded in the floor of the temple to protect it from misuse by the Ottomans, who could use it for construction. This action demonstrates a deep understanding of the significance of the artifact and concrete actions for its preservation.
The servant of God, Mataisa Kantakouzena Paleologina, died in the year 1441, month of November, indict V
Inscription on the tombstone of Princess Mataisa Kantakouzena Paleologina
Today, the slab with its inscription is located and can be seen in the Archaeological Museum of Nessebar. The history of the slab reflects that of the people themselves - from the glory of the Byzantine Empire and the Second Bulgarian Kingdom, through the struggle for survival under foreign rule, to the preservation of the heritage in a modern museum context.
"St. Spas" - museum value
Currently, the "St. Spas" church functions as a museum and is one of the most visited cultural sites on the peninsula.
Its interior frescoes have been restored and well preserved, allowing visitors to enjoy their artistic value. The temple has been partially restored and is included in future projects of the Nessebar Municipality aimed at preserving the cultural and architectural heritage.
The preservation of monuments such as St. Spas depends not only on the efforts of local authorities, but also on state policies and international commitments. This situation shows that the future of cultural heritage is the subject of continuous struggle and negotiations between various stakeholders.
The place of St. Spas in the cultural memory of Nessebar
Despite its modest exterior, the St. Spas Church is one of the most significant monuments in Nessebar. It serves as an emblematic example of cultural resistance and the preservation of faith and identity in difficult historical times. Its history, which reveals how the modest external form was a prerequisite for survival, while the inner richness preserved the spiritual essence of the community, represents a powerful narrative of the resilience of the Bulgarian people. The fate of the tombstone of Matiisa Palaeologina, purposefully moved and hidden to protect it from destruction, complements this narrative and highlights the conscious efforts to preserve historical memory.
The Church of St. Spas is today not just a tourist attraction, but a living testimony to the spiritual and cultural sustainability. It is an important element of the mosaic of Ancient Nessebar, which, despite the existing challenges, continues to be the guardian of an exceptional historical and artistic heritage.
In 1927, the Church of St. Spas was declared a national antiquity.
In 1964, the Church of St. Spas was declared an architectural and construction monument of culture with the category of national importance.
Nessebar - a journey through time, embraced by the sea and whispering stories
Sometimes we need to stop for a moment, leave the hectic everyday life behind us and immerse ourselves in an atmosphere where time has stopped.
Ancient Nessebar is just such a place.
Situated on a small, rocky peninsula, connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land, this city is like a treasure trove, protected by the waves of the Black Sea.
Nessebar is located:
412 kilometers (about 3 hours and 59 minutes by car) from the capital
277 kilometers (about 2 hours and 55 minutes by car) from the city of Plovdiv
100 kilometers (about 1 hour and 48 minutes by car) from the city of Varna
35 kilometers (about 36 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
The ancient town of Nessebar is a living museum. Here, antiquity, every ruin, every paved street and every ancient house carry the spirit of bygone eras.
As soon as you pass the old mill, you will be greeted by a labyrinth of cobblestone streets that wind between old houses with characteristic wooden facades and flower gardens.
The air is filled with the scent of the sea and history.
Don't miss the over 40 churches that whisper stories of the greatness of Byzantium, and feel how history intertwines with the sea. Some of them are ruins, others are perfectly preserved, but all of them are witnesses to the greatness of the Byzantine Empire and the Middle Ages.
But Nessebar is not just a museum. It is a living city that breathes in unison with the sea. Allow yourself to get lost in the narrow streets, browse the small shops with handmade souvenirs and sit in a cozy restaurant with a view of the sea.
In the evening, when the sun sinks into the sea waters and the city lights reflect on the calm surface, Nessebar becomes a magical place that will leave a lasting impression in your heart.
Come and feel the magic of time in Ancient Nessebar!
Surrender to the charm of the wooden houses perched above the cliffs and let the wind tell you about the ancient seafarers.
In the evening, when the sun reflects in the sea, Nessebar turns into a magical place.
Visit Old Nessebar and touch eternity - here time simply stops.
How to get to the Church of St. Spas?
The Church of St. Spas is located in the central part of the Old Town of Nessebar.
I advise you to leave your car in the large northern municipal parking lot (a parking fee is required). You climb some of the numerous steps leading to "Kraibrezhna" street and along one of the numerous narrow cobblestone streets you head to the central part of the Old Town of Nessebar.
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