Klisura
- Stefan Ivanov
- Apr 10, 2023
- 17 min read
Updated: Jan 20
"Zli dol peak, on the northeastern edge of the city, had a good strategic position. the far-sighted guards that make up the "chain" of the gorge army.
Evil Dol's guard was the most numerous. She was reinforced by Volova's Central Highlanders - remnants of a broken four - and she was preparing to meet with her bullets the first thrust of the enemy.
Today there was a particular activity there. Some cheerfulness shone in the eyes. But they were not facing the direction from which the enemy was expected, but towards the hollow in which Klisura nestled. Everyone was staring intently at the path that wound along the cliff this way. There an insurgent, of giant stature, carried something white, long, cylindrical on his shoulder. A woman, full and strong, peasant in dress, came after him, bent under a burden, evidently very heavy.
It was on these two people that all eyes were absorbed. And you had a reason: they were taking the artillery to Zli Dol!... It consisted of a single cherry cannon.
He was on the giant's shoulder.
The projectiles, consisting of iron pieces, bullets, gypsy nails, petals, etc., hung in a bag on the peasant woman's back.
The eyes of the insurgents blazed with pleasure; elation generally took over Zli dol!
At last the giant came to the top of the summit, drenched in hot sweat, which dripped like rain from his brows and from his neck."
"Under the yoke"
Ivan Vazov
People!
Knowing that the ball will burst to try it...
...so that the women and girls are not afraid, but let them be happy...
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This is how the patriarch of Bulgarian literature describes in his novel "Under the Yoke" the first shot from the cherry ball.
Entering the city from the north (coming off the Sub-Balkan road), you will first pass the Borimechka monument.
In the area of Shaikovitsa above Klisura, next to the "Borimechka" monument, this pointed rock has been placed, on which an inscription has been placed, which reads:
Here was the second battle position of the insurgent Klisura in April 1876.
From this height, the insurgent Ivan Tankov - Borimechka announces loudly that the first shot from the cherry ball will be fired.
From here he also warns of the advance of Tosun Bey's hordes and urges the population to seek refuge in "Vishina Koria" and "Vrlishnitsa".
It was made on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the April Uprising and was officially opened on the same day, along with the monument to the great Panagyur hero Pavel Bobekov.
The author of both monuments is Metodi Izmirliev.
Ivan Tankov – Borimechka
Ivan Tankov - Borimechka is a prototype of the literary character Ivan Borimechka from the vase novels "Under the Yoke" and "New Land".
In the novel "Under the Yoke", Borimechka is a villager from the village of Altonovo who takes part in the uprising in Klisura. Without education, but with great physical strength and enormous enthusiasm, he became one of the active participants in his organization. The scene in which he carries a cherry ball on his back to a hill near the village and calls out from there to warn the villagers that he is going to be shot at is famous.
In the novel "New Land" Vazov tells that after the uprising, Ivan Borimechka went to Romania to complete his education.
Ivan Tankov Kozarov (1852 – 1878) was the son of a goatherd from Klisur, and due to the inability of his family to provide him with an education, he remained ignorant. However, he is an extremely alert young man.
As a child, he herded the goats and collected wood from the forest for firewood in the winter.
He became famous all over Klisura when one day he managed to catch two bears, hence his nickname - Borimechka.
At the age of 19, Ivan Tankov married his fellow citizen Gina, with whom he had five children in 6 years, but only his son Petko survived, born after the brutal suppression of the April Uprising.
In order to strengthen the weak armament of the insurgents, the military council assigns craftsmen-Katzars to make wooden cannons - cherry balls.
...One of the cannons was first moved to Zli dol, where its strength could be tested. In order that the women and children of the village might not be frightened by the thunder, it was ordered that this should be announced by a herald. The first attempt, however, did not give any great result, the rumble was too weak and could be heard at a close distance. The top blossomed. The curious populace waits until the evening with tense hearing. The masters saw the weak points of their creation, so the other tops corrected themselves. Two or three such cannons were placed that day on all sides...
From the memoir "Samuel" ("Gulf in the April Uprising") by Hristo Popov, 1887.
And oak fanahme to open his throat, because it is stronger than the cherry. That top the coolest. If you throw it, it will reach the church of Sopot. So the ferryman knows, no joke...
From the notes of Tsanko Delchov Obretenov - master of cherry balls
Borimechka gets involved with great enthusiasm in the preparation of the uprising and is assigned the difficult but important task of placing the cherry balls in their positions in the Zli dol area.
Borimechka was not at all chosen by chance for this difficult task.
It was thought that because of his immense physical strength, he would handle it relatively easily. And so it happens - the 24-year-old giant deploys the cherry artillery in its positions and prepares it for combat operations against the Turks.
It is Borimechka with her thunderous voice that warns the population of Klisura not to be afraid of the thunder when testing the cherry balls.
Almost after every word Borimechka repeats a specific phrase that, according to Vazov, "expresses his feelings and thoughts much more intelligently than his mouth could do."
Borimechka repeats the phrase as many as twice in the famous scene in which she calls out to the hill near the village to warn the villagers that the cherry ball will be tested.
From the same position, a few days later, Borimechka again warned of the advance of Tosun Bey's hordes and invited the population of Klisura to seek salvation outside the city. In this way, Ivan Tankov remains forever in the people's memory as a daring and extremely brave hero who dared to fight against the Ottoman Empire.
After the defeat of the rebel forces, Borimechka wandered for three days in the mountains around her hometown together with her comrades. They tried to get to Koprivshtitsa to be with their surviving fellow citizens and relatives, but were captured by Hafez Pasha's soldiers.
The date was August 15, 1876, and Ivan Tankov was sentenced to exile.
Initially, the hero of Klisura was sent to prison in Constantinople, but after the beginning of the Russo-Turkish war of liberation, he was transferred together with many of his compatriots to the fortress of Akiya (Saint Jean d'Acre) in Palestine. At that time, almost the entire fortress was full of Bulgarian prisoners - Pencho Bozhkov and Filip Bozhkov Popov were imprisoned in the same fortress. Unlike most of them, Borimechka did not live to return to her liberated homeland.
On January 19, 1878, just a month before the conclusion of the San Stefano preliminary peace treaty, Ivan Tankov - Borimechka, one of the symbols of the insurgent Klisura, died from his wounds and from the inhuman treatment of the Turks towards him.
After the uprising, Borimechka's wife, Gina, worked as a maid in the gorge church, mixing the wafers.
Borimechka's only surviving child - his son Petko Ivanov Tankov lived to be 62 years old.
The Herald of the Gorge Cherry Artillery is forever frozen with both hands over his mouth, facing his city, heralding the thunder of the cherry cannon that woke the people and brought down the empire.
I am standing under the Borimechka monument and my gaze is directed towards the small town nestled in the bosom of the mountain.
I'm back in the Gorge.
This beautiful and awake Bulgarian settlement attracts me like a magnet, I can't resist it and here I am - where the proud Balkan kisses Sredna Gora.
From this kiss, the magical gorge that gave the city its name was born.
It's April.
It's still chilly.
The sky is blue.
The sun shyly hides behind the numerous white fluffy clouds that have crept across the Balkans.
A cold breeze comes down from the mountain. The ridge of the Balkans is still white.
The birds sing glorious songs—of brave heroes, of young men with ardor in their hearts, mounting their swift steeds and galloping across the green fields around.
Heroic songs, bastards!
Songs for that distant April, the summer of 1876, when Klisura rose up!
I listen to the exciting song of the birds, the wind blows me, and my gaze is fixed on the Gorge.
Beauty! Beauty in harm's way!
Take a look at this incredible panorama that unfolds from this memorable place.
Klisura is a green, calm, picturesque and extremely charming town.
A walk here is an incomparable pleasure that I recommend you do.
Near the "Borimechka" monument, the inscription "I 💖 Klisura" has been built. There are also benches from which you can enjoy the majestic panorama that opens up from the place.
Klisura is one of the most historically significant cities for Bulgaria.
The historical town is picturesquely located in the westernmost part of the Strem Valley. As I already told you, the city gets its name from its special location – perched in the gorge between the Balkans and Sredna Gora.
From here passes the only road from Zlatishko-Pirdopska to Strem valley.
Continuing along the road, you will enter the town and soon pass the 20th of April Square.
Immediately after the square rises the beautiful church "St. Bogoroditsa", known among the people of Klisur as the new church, which can be viewed by anyone who wishes.
Before the Liberation, a Turkish inn existed in its place, which was subsequently demolished and the current temple was built.
It is believed that the ardent orator and inspirer of the heroes of Zli dol - priest Bozhko Filipov, who was also a member of the revolutionary committee in 1876, served in the ancient church.
Opposite the church you will find the building of Starobednitsa in Klisura.
What an interesting name!
The inscription on the building reads:
STAROBEDNITSA
H. Yovko N. Chakarovu
At Orthodox. Christian Brotherhood of St. Nicholas
The generosity of Klisurci found expression in many of its manifestations after the Liberation.
The biggest donor of the city - Yovko Chakarov in 1938 donated a building with the curious name "Starobednitsa" - a dining room and a shelter for old people and poor people.
I leave the square along the small creek in the direction of the ruins of the old church "St. Nicholas" - the place from where the first bell rang, heralding the beginning of the April Uprising.
"St. Nicholas" was built somewhere around 1840.
Four years later, the merchant Nedelcho Petrovic donated to the new church a church chandelier and a bell, which you will see in the following photo moment.
After the brutal suppression of the uprising, "St. Nicholas" was burned to the ground and now only its ruins remind of its existence. Until then, it was full of tumultuous cultural life, and then it became a secret warehouse for the rebel weapons. Before the fire, here was the bell tower, from which the signal for the beginning of the April epic was given, and here Panayot Volov consecrated his flag before heading with his squad to Zli dol.
In the chapel-ossuary "St. Archangel Michael", which is located in the courtyard of the church, the bones of the people of Klisur who died in the uprising are kept.
On the second floor of the historical museum in the city, the original bell, donated by Nedelcho Petrovic, whose echo gave the historic sign, namely from the yard of "St. Nicholas", is kept.
After the suppression of the uprising, when Klisura was burned down, the bell was sent to be melted down in Karlovo. Accidentally recognized, it was immediately returned to the city and today it is one of the most important exhibits of the historical museum in Klisura.
Museum of History
You will find the beautiful museum building, painted in pink and white and with a cherry top above the entrance door, on April 20 Square.
The historical museum of the city of Klisura is listed at number 77 of the 100 national tourist sites.
On the second floor of the museum, you will see the complete list with the names of those who died during the uprising, as well as an authentic cherry ball - a symbol of the gorge artillery.
Opposite the building of the historical museum is the Pavurdzhieva house.
Pavurdjieva's house
This is the best-preserved historical site in the city of Klisura. It was built after the Liberation in the place where the Pavurdzhiev Khan was, according to the memories and instructions of the descendants of the Pavurdzhiev family.
The first revolutionary committee of the 4th revolutionary district was established in the Pavurjiev Khan.
Today, the oath room is recreated in the house, where on January 15, 1876, the revolutionaries Georgi Benkovski and Panayot Volov, in the presence of Klisuri figures Petar Pavurdzhiev and Hristo Popov, founded the Klisuri Revolutionary Committee - the first co-swearing of the future uprising.
By spring, in the Gorge, codenamed "Samuel", everyone is preparing for an uprising.
Currently, the Pavurdzhieva house presents the urban revival lifestyle of Klisura.
In the courtyard of the house, today you can see the only rose factory preserved in Bulgaria from the 19th century - Klisura is famous for the rose oil produced here, which made up a quarter of the rose oil in the Bulgarian lands of that time.
In order to see Pavurdzhieva's house, it is necessary to call the Historical Museum of the city of Klisura in advance!
A monument to Nikola Karadjov has been erected on the "20th of April" square between Pavurdjieva's house and the building of the historical museum.
In the center of the city, the appreciative population has erected a worthy monument to their remarkable fellow citizen. The monument represents the voivode in full height, in a rebel uniform and with a saber in his hand.
Nikola Karadjov
Nikola Ivanov Karadjov was a Bulgarian revolutionary and participant in the April Uprising.
Born in a wealthy family in Klisura in 1841.
His father is a member of the Abadji guild and as such often makes business trips to Constantinople. During his visits to the capital of the Ottoman Empire, he became involved in the struggle of the Bulgarians of Constantinople for ecclesiastical and national freedoms. Completely devoted to this struggle, he became one of the closest associates of the zealous church figure Hilarion Makariopolski.
Nikola Karadjov completed his primary education in his native Klisura, and his primary education in Koprivshtitsa. Then, due to the good financial situation of his parents, he enrolled in the French College in Constantinople. He continued his education at the grammar school in Zagreb and studied for two years at the Theological Academy in the same city.
After returning to Bulgaria with enriched knowledge, Nikola devoted himself to educational activities. Twenty-eight years old, he was appointed in 1869 as a teacher in the Plovdiv diocesan school.
He taught there for several years, but at some point had to leave to take over his father's commercial office.
In those times, as a lover of the enslaved Bulgarian people, Nikola Karadjov joined the Revolutionary Committee in Klisura and quickly became its representative at the national assembly convened in Oborishte. Here, due to his good organizational qualities, he was elected secretary of the assembly and a member of the commission that must determine the order in which the uprising will be carried out.
April 20, summer 1876
On his way back from the meeting in Oborishte, Nikola Karadjov moved with the activists from Koprivshtitsa and the surrounding settlements. For this reason, he was together with Todor Kableshkov when, on April 20, the Turkish authorities tried to arrest the head of Koprivsht.
Nikola Karadjov took part in the skirmish with the prisoners, witnessed the capture of the inn and re-signed (with a short comment and his signature) the famous bloody letter to Georgi Benkovski for greater credibility.
Immediately after that, he left for his hometown and only two hours later started the uprising in Klisura.
Nikola Karadjov took over the leadership of the insurgents in his hometown and was appointed chairman of the Military Council and head of the guards.
Early in the morning of April 21, the Military Council of the insurgent Klisura was established. On the same day, the rebel flag was solemnly consecrated and handed over in the area of Zli dol.
Military council of the first Bulgarian government in Klisura:
Nikola Karadzhov - chairman and head of the guards
Nyagul Boyadzhiiski – assistant to N. Karadjov
Hristo Pavurdzhiev - guardian of cattle for slaughter
Nesho Berberski - head of weapons and military supplies
Doncho Popmakaveev - head of the livelihood of the Chets and the poor
Tsanko Boyadzhiev - responsible for preparing shakpi
Tuncho Petkov – responsible for preparing cats for the chervils
Hristo Boyadzhiiski - distributor of horses
Pop Bozhko – priest of the detachments
Filip Bozhkov Popov – chief scribe (secretary)
Grigor Bozhkov Popov – assistant to the chief scribe
The Military Council of Klysurci is a model of true democratic people's government.
All property, all food supplies are declared common.
Nikola Karadjov organized everything in the activity during the Freedom Days between April 20 and 26, 1876.
...And so the flags were unfurled in the Balkans and forests of Koprivshtitsa, Panagyurishte and other 32 villages. In this way, all the passages are occupied. Another similar letter has been sent to you through the Gorge...
A bloody letter sent from Koprivshtitsa to Stoyan Zaimov in Vratsa, April 21, 1876.
Area Zli dol
In anticipation of the enemy, the gorge insurgents guard the key positions "Zli dol", "Presveta", "Kekia put", "Humnik", "Topancheto", "Archangelov den", "Pamuk mound", "Bahalovi kamani" and "Ostritsa".
...We rose against inequality, against tyranny.
Our wish is to see the Bulgarian in a better position, to see him striving for everything great and true, and not to be only a submissive slave...
When we want human justice, we do not want to trample on others.
All men are equal before us.
We are not going against the Turk-man, but against the Turk-tyrant.
We want back what was taken by force, because it is ours.
We are weak physically but strong in righteousness and we believe that righteousness will prevail.
Under this sacred banner we will bravely fight, kill and die until we see our desire fulfilled, the ideal of liberation achieved.
Forward for freedom or death!
From the speech of Grigor Popov, delivered on April 21, 1876 at Zli dol
The gorge area of Zli dol is a kind of cultural monument that has preserved the memories of one of the most terrible battles of the April Uprising, which the city lost in an unequal battle against the cruel enslaver and was completely burned down.
On April 26, a numerous bashibozuk gathered from the Strem Valley and Kazanlashko, led by the Karlovian feudal lord Tosun Bey, completely covered Klisura. The smaller Bulgarian defenders did not hold back the attacks of the Turks.
Over two hundred of the villagers who did not manage to escape were brutally slaughtered. The victims are mostly women, children and the elderly. Klisur residents are giving way village by village. Many insurgents died in the fighting, and the rest, together with the population, retreated to Koprivshtitsa.
Volov appeared with a detachment of Koprivshten citizens. He rallies the retreating gorge fighters and attacks the Turkish horde in the rear, but the heavy rain wets the insurgents' gunpowder and their guns cannot fire.
Panayot Volov is forced to retreat to Koprivshtitsa.
This day ends the April Uprising for Klisura.
After the pogrom of the uprising, Nikola Karadjov fled to Koprivshtitsa, and from there, together with Panayot Volov and Georgi Ikonomov, they intended to try to cross the Balkans and reach Romania.
On May 2, 1876, the voivode died in a battle with a Turkish battalion.
Yesterday, chaush Ryuzgar Ahmed, sent to the Teteven Balkan, to the neighboring Plovdiv village of Rahmanlare and around the Troyan Balkan to set up ambushes, came across a rebel ambush. After about an hour of shooting on both sides, without any losses on our side, the insurgents were defeated, and during the escape, their leader with a yellow tin lion sign on his cap and in a Komite uniform was killed (the insurgent who was killed was Nikola Karadjov ) from the bullet of the said Chaush. The documents and clothes found in his possession have been taken and sent...
Mutesarif of Sofia:
Ahmed Mazhar
His forehead is located above the old mountain area of Ravna Reka in the Klisur Balkan.
Klisura is the settlement with the greatest material damage during the uprising. The complete destruction of the city is evidenced by the fact that when the troops of Gen. The Komarovskis are coming, there is only one completed house in Klisura - Chervenakov.
The toll for the city is more than 400 dead, and the two schools, the church and about 830 chardakli houses have been reduced to ashes.
The unfortunate population found refuge in Koprivshtitsa, where they spent 38 days – a life under the constant threat of the scimitar, in torment, suffering and uncertainty.
Men - in the woods or dragging heavy chains. Many leave bones in Diyarbakır and Saint Jean d'Acre.
From the memories of Gana Naydenova about the fate of Klisur residents after their return from Koprivshtitsa:
...Fifty horsemen and infantrymen set out, drove out the gorge azis. When we went - everything was burnt, it is not known that there were any houses. As many of us as there were, there was nowhere for us to take shelter. They spread white umbrellas, 15 people in one umbrella. There were only nightstands and a sieve and two coppers. Some knead and cook, and then others... also kneaded on the ground.
The fate of four of the gorge insurgents - Haralampi Karadjov, Grigor Popov, Hristo Trufchev and Atanas Popminkov - is touching. Betrayed and surrounded in the Sopot church, three died from the Turkish scimitars, and the wounded Haralampi died after cruel torture in Plovdiv.
How do you get to Klisura?
The town of Klisura is located on the border of Sofia and Plovdiv regions.
It is located in southern Bulgaria near the Sub-Balkan road*.
*Republican road I-6, better known as the Sub-Balkan road, is a first-class road from the Republic road network of Bulgaria with a direction from west to east, crossing the territory of nine districts: Kyustendilska, Pernishka, Sofia region, Sofiaska, Plovdivska, Starozagorska, Sliven, Yambol and Burgas.
Its total length is 508.5 km, which makes it the longest national road in Bulgaria.
Klisura stands on:
109 kilometers (about 1 hour and 30 minutes by car) from the capital
94 kilometers (about 1 hour and 20 minutes by car) from the city of Plovdiv
384 kilometers (about 5 hours by car) from the city of Varna
278 kilometers (about 3 hours and 20 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
25 kilometers (about 28 minutes by car) from the town of Koprivshtitsa
How do you get to the Zli Dol area?
Returning back in the direction of the Sub-Balkan road, continue in the direction of the city of Burgas.
You will soon see that the path forks. Continue straight without taking the turn that will take you to the Sub-Balkan Road.
On the right in the trees is this signpost which you are very likely to miss - I also only noticed it on the way back from Zli Dol and that was because I was walking.
The commemorative rock placed today at the site is less than a minute's drive from the junction for the Sub-Balkan road.
There is another old monument erected at the site which I have not visited yet, but I promise to do so soon, describe how to get there and post photo moments of the site.
What's new, what's new
What's new in Kamenna Klisura?
The deserted gorges became Muscovites,
and Panagyurs – Don Cossacks!
Their voivode was Gheorgi Benkovski,
Raina maiden waves a flag.
Their tops were cherry wood,
their cannonballs were kantar maces.
The ball burst - Europe was startled,
Russia jumped Klisura to defend.
Kotlensko
(Kachulev, p. 41)
What can be visited nearby?
Just 28 kilometers east of the town of Klisura (about 27 minutes by car) is the town of Sopot.
In Sopot, you must visit the "Ivan Vazov" house-museum.
In the city of Sopot, you can visit the charming Sopot waterfalls.
33 kilometers east of the town of Klisura (about 34 minutes by car) is the town of Karlovo.
In Karlovo, I recommend taking a walk to the Ethnographic Complex "Old Karlovo".
It includes five houses - monuments of culture with remarkable cultural value. These are:
Each of the houses gives birth to its own unique message, which directs the guest in different directions, provokes desires and memories in him, makes him dream.
The integrity of the architectural ensemble is unique and inimitable, and every visitor could feel that great revival spirit that still roams the narrow cobbled streets of "Old Karlovo".
Ethnographic complex "Old Karlovo" is object number 44b of the 100 national tourist objects.
In Karlovo, I recommend taking a walk to the beautiful Suchurum waterfall.
April epic
Oborishte historical area
April 15 - 17, summer 1876 - first Bulgarian National Assembly
Georgi Benkovski
Todor Kableshkov
The bloody letter
The Tuteva House in Panagyurishte and announcement of the uprising
Birthplace of Raina Knyaginya
Church "St. Dimitar" in "Verigovo"
Church "St. Archangel Michael" - the last refuge in Peruštitsa
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