Late medieval church "St. Theodore Tyrone and Theodore Stratilates" in the village of Dobarsko, Blagoevgrad region - a jewel of medieval Bulgarian painting
- Stefan Ivanov
- Apr 3, 2024
- 12 min read
Updated: Jul 23
I had really heard a lot about the old church in Dobarsko!
I knew about its unique, one-of-a-kind murals that could not be seen anywhere else in the world.
I also knew that the late medieval church "St. St. Theodore Tyron and Theodore Stratilates" in the village of Dobarsko, Blagoevgrad district, has been declared an artistic monument of culture of national importance.
I knew that it was site number 3 of the 100 national tourist sites in Bulgaria.
I also knew about the ongoing efforts to place it on the UNESCO Tentative List, which is the first and mandatory step on the path to the eventual inclusion of a site on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage List. I knew that if this happened, it would be a global recognition of its unique value and potential to be declared a World Heritage Site, which would contribute to its better protection and promotion.
I was aware of all these facts and I really, really wanted to visit and see it!
And then one day it happened!
Traveling to Dobarsko, I wondered how I would feel and what I would experience, crossing the threshold and bending down to pass through the narrow and low stone door.
I wondered with what trepidation I would descend the narrow stairs and stand under the ceiling of this creation of the people who lived in the 17th century in Bulgarian lands in the area of today's small mountain village, located in the middle of the southern slopes of Rila at 1050 meters above sea level.
On the way to Dobarsko
What I did not know and did not expect at all was the miracle that suddenly struck me with all its force, power and extraordinary impact - it hit me deeply, struck me down like lightning with its incredible emotional charge and magical suggestion!
No, I was not ready for this!
I chose to start my story with everything that awaits you on the road to Dobarsko!
A well-maintained road leads to this ancient Bulgarian settlement, winding along the curves of the Dobarska River.
I followed it.
This road is not easy to travel!
Don't get me wrong – the road is beautiful, easy and almost without any vehicle traffic on it.
What made the time to reach the final point incredibly long was the grandeur, perfection and beauty of nature!
To the north, the graceful folds of our beautiful Rila, gently covered with a white, ethereal snow, were scattered across the entire northern horizon, so that they noticeably seriously distracted my attention and I was not and could not stay concentrated on the road.
To the south, oh, how is such beauty even possible!
Pirin in the south had firmly raised its strong ashen-snowy peaks, trying to support the skies, on which white curly clouds were crawling, spread out like woolly kites over the graceful peaks!
Fresh greenery had covered everything around! Joy was flowing into my heart and coming out!
The sun was extremely generous in giving out light, giving warmth to all living things below!
Here and there trees and bushes had donned their cheerful spring attire and were showing off to everyone.
A flock of sheep was scattered across the green grass, grazing, their bells ringing in the silence.
Todorin Vrh was the central adornment of the entire picturesque and beautiful picture and made me shiver, filling every fiber in my body with joy!
The air was filled with the fresh scent of green grass, which, together with the sound of the wind and the bells of the herd, created the most perfect divine symphony, heard by a human ear and felt by a human heart – a gift for the senses!
I couldn’t drive! It was impossible at all!
In Dobarsko
It was quite a while later that I finally managed to reach the village.
It is best to set the location of the church on your navigation system so that it can seamlessly guide you right to the place.
A visit on a weekday is the better choice. On weekends, it is quite possible that you will not be able to see it properly due to the huge crowds of tourists.
The courtyard of "St. St. Theodore Tyrone and Theodore Stratilates" is diligently maintained.
I have been here both in the early spring days and in the height of summer and I can clearly say that the place is excellently maintained.
Here is the church.
The temple is actually very small. It is deeply dug into the ground.
There is no dome or bell tower.
Its dimensions are:
Length – 8.37 meters
Width – 6.50 meters
Height – 5.20 meters.
The entrance is from the west. The small, domeless church is a three-aisled basilica.
The apse on the east is semi-cylindrical and does not protrude from the outside. The temple has three small windows – two on the south and one on the north side. There are also three small round windows high on the east wall.
In the 19th century, the open porch to the west was replaced by a new open narthex with a massive wall, which in turn was replaced at the beginning of the 20th century with a stone-built vestibule, which is now the first entry.
The construction is made of processed quarry stones, and in the upper parts, especially to the east, around the round windows there is brick decoration - a two-row brick cornice of the wolf's teeth type and framing of the round windows.
The roof is gabled, and the covering was originally made of stone slabs, later replaced with Turkish tiles.
Inside, the three naves are separated by four large steps with an arcade above them.
A cross is carved into the topmost stone block on the southeast corner of the church.
From the vestibule, several small, narrow and steep steps lead into the church.
A founding inscription above the western door of the church tells that the founder Hasiya Bogdanov, after visiting Jerusalem, returned to the village and erected a temple. This happened between 1613 and 1614. There is a dispute as to whether 1614 was the year of the construction or the inscription of the temple.
Some researchers assume that the temple is the successor of a church built on the same site during the time of Prince Boris I and his son – Tsar Simeon, who received the nickname "The Great" after his death, due to the flourishing of culture and literature during his time, known as the "Golden Age of Bulgarian Culture". Evidence of this is a large marble slab, built into the floor in front of the altar of the temple, on which a half-erased inscription can be seen, containing the number 1122, in a circle around a two-headed crowned eagle.
The entire interior of the temple is painted, covering all the inner walls and the western facade. There are over 460 images in the church.
Bright and saturated colors are used, which create a sense of vitality and dynamism. The preservation of blue, red and gold is particularly impressive.
The scenes are dynamic and emotional, with a pronounced drama in some of the images.
Biblical scenes are presented mainly from the life of Our Savior - Lord Jesus Christ.
All the frescoes are authentic - from 1614. They are an exceptional example of the achievements of Bulgarian medieval painting, with an original style and wealth of details.
They were restored in the period 1973 - 1978 by the restorer Petar Popov and architect Zlatka Kirova.
The signature of the medieval icon painters has not been found, but it is claimed that they are from the school of Pimen Zografski.
The inscriptions in the church are in Bulgarian.
The Legend of the Spring
The legend of the founding of the village of Dobarsko by the blinded soldiers of Samuil is one of the most famous and touching stories in Bulgarian folklore, connected with the tragic battle of Belasitsa in 1014.
The Tragedy of Belasitsa
After the heavy defeat of the Bulgarian army by the Byzantine Emperor Basil II (later called the "Bulgar Killer") at the village of Klyuch, he ordered thousands of captured Bulgarian soldiers to be blinded - about 15,000 people. For every hundred soldiers, one was left with one good eye to lead the rest. This terrifying sight caused the heart attack that struck Tsar Samuil, and he died days later.
The Road to Dobarsko and the Miracle of the Spring
The blinded soldiers, led by their one-eyed leaders, set off on the torturous road to the Rila Monastery, seeking refuge and solace. However, winter caught up with them in the area of today's village of Dobarsko. Exhausted and desperate, they stopped to rest by a spring in the area.
According to legend, the water from this spring has miraculous healing properties.
The soldiers began to wash their eyes with it and to their amazement, their pain subsided, and some even regained their sight. Feeling relief and hope, many of them decided not to continue their journey to the Rila Monastery, but to remain forever in this blessed place.
The founding of the village and the singing school
The legend also tells that it was these Samuel's soldiers who are considered the founders of the village of Dobarsko.
They settled down, started families and laid the foundations of the settlement. Since many of them were blind, but had a strong spirit and loved folk songs, they created the famous Dobar Singing School of Blind Guslars. These singers traveled the country, spreading the Bulgarian heroic epic, playing the gusli and singing ballads. It is said that they even spoke their own secret beggarly dialect.
In the courtyard of the medieval church "St. St. Theodore Tiron and Theodore Stratilates" in Dobarsko, this healing spring (ayazmo) is still located to this day. People from all over the country continue to visit it, believing in its healing power for eye diseases. In the church itself there is even a mural, which is believed to depict the blinded soldiers of Samuil.
This legend is deeply rooted in the local history and culture of Dobarsko, turning the village into a symbol of hope, endurance and faith in miracles, even after the greatest tragedies.
Dobarsko Singing School of the Blind Guslars
The famous Dobarsko Singing School of the Blind Guslars is a unique phenomenon in Bulgarian cultural history.
The Dobarsko Singing School, according to legend, originated from the blinded soldiers of Samuel who settled in Dobarsko. These men, deprived of sight, found solace and meaning in music and song. Thus, a community was created that became a professional association, similar to medieval guilds. The center of the school is the village of Dobarsko.
The members of the school were mostly blind or crippled men who earned their living by singing and playing. They traveled around the country, performing songs at fairs, markets, weddings and other gatherings.
During the difficult years of Byzantine and Turkish slavery, the Dobar Singing School played an extremely important role in preserving the Bulgarian spirit, language and culture. Through their songs, they transmitted historical events, traditions, legends and heroic epics from generation to generation. They were like living chroniclers and guardians of the national memory.
The Dobar guslars were disseminators of the Bulgarian heroic epic, including songs about King Marko, the Bulgarian kings, battles and victories. They were a kind of troubadours or balladeers, who with their performances inspired and maintained national self-awareness.
The school was known for the high professional skill of its members. They did not just sing, but were virtuosos of the gusla.
The gusla is a traditional folk bowed musical instrument. It usually has one string, which is played with a bow. It is made of a single piece of wood, often pear-shaped with a long neck, and its soundboard may be made of stretched animal skin. The string is often made of horsehair. The gusla is held upright, resting on the knee. It is an instrument that allows for a highly emotional and dramatic performance, which was ideal for conveying heroic and tragic plots.
The school trained new generations of blind and disabled boys in the musical craft, providing them with the opportunity for a livelihood and a dignified life.
In order to communicate with each other without being understood by others, the blind musicians created their own secret language, called the beggar's speech or the Bitola and Dobro beggar's language. This language included about two hundred words, a small part of which has been preserved to this day. This is a unique example of a specialized jargon developed within a specific community.
The Dobar singing school existed for centuries – according to some sources, over nine centuries, until around 1930. In the 19th century, professional begging singing was one of the main crafts in the Dobar region, as the land in the region was small and infertile.
The first written records of the Dobar singer-beggars date back to the mid-19th century, with Atanasii Cholakov Hilendarets and Mihail Popfilipov mentioning them. In 1884, the folklorist Serafim Boyanov published a collection of heroic songs recorded by the blind Dobar guslar Nikola Telev (Tilev), which is an invaluable contribution to the Bulgarian folklore heritage.
Over time, with changes in society, the development of education and better opportunities for the integration of people with visual impairments, the tradition of wandering guslars gradually faded away. However, the legend of the Dobar Singing School remains alive and is an important part of the local identity and national memory.
In conclusion, I will share that the church "St. St. Theodore Tyrone and Theodore Stratilates" in Dobarsko is not just an architectural monument, but a living testimony to the spirit and faith of our ancestors. Its frescoes, preserved over the centuries, are not only an expression of exceptional artistic mastery, but also an invaluable source of information about medieval culture and spirituality. The preservation of this treasure is our common responsibility, because through it we preserve an integral part of Bulgarian history and identity for future generations.
The church in Dobarsko remains one of the most remarkable places in Bulgaria.
How to get to the village of Dobarsko, Blagoevgrad region?
Dobarsko is a small mountain village located in the southern foothills of Rila at an altitude of 1050 meters.
Dobarsko is located:
170 kilometers (about 2 hours and 09 minutes by car) from the capital
151 kilometers (about 2 hours and 48 minutes by car) from the city of Plovdiv
527 kilometers (about 6 hours and 34 minutes by car) from the city of Varna
405 kilometers (about 4 hours and 42 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
Dobarsko is an ancient Bulgarian settlement.
The settlement was probably founded in the 9th or 10th century by stratiotes - peasant warriors exempt from most taxes, who were obliged to report to the army of the respective ruler with their own weapons during war. This practice, characteristic of medieval Bulgaria and Byzantium, was preserved during the first three centuries of Ottoman rule in our lands.
If the settlement was indeed founded by warriors, then the choice of the two warrior saints* as patrons of the church "St. St. Theodore Tyrone and Theodore Stratilates" erected in the 17th century is somewhat logical.
*St. Theodore Tyrone lived at the end of the 3rd and beginning of the 4th century. The name "Tyrone" comes from the Latin word tiro, which means "recruit" or "young soldier". He was a soldier in Pontus (Asia Minor), in the city of Amasya, during the time of Emperor Maximian Galerius (297-311). He was part of the Marmarite Regiment. When the emperor began the persecution of Christians, Theodore refused to offer sacrifice to the pagan gods. Because of his firm faith, he was thrown into prison and subjected to cruel torture. In the end, he was sentenced to death by burning. It is believed that he died around 305 or 306.
St. Theodore Stratilates lived later than St. Theodore Tyrone, in the 4th century. The name "Stratilates" comes from the Greek word στρατηλάτης (stratilates), meaning "general" or "military leader". This indicates that he held a higher military rank. He was a native of the city of Euchaita (or Euhana) and was a prominent military leader in the city of Heraclius Pontus, during the time of Emperor Licinius (308-324), who was also a cruel persecutor of Christians. Theodore Stratilates was known for his courage and piety. He not only did not hide his faith, but also actively preached Christianity, converting many to it. When Licinius found out about his faith, he ordered his arrest and torture. St. Theodore suffered terrible tortures - he was scourged, crucified and finally beheaded with a sword. It is believed that he died around 319.
For centuries, the village has been a hotbed of the Bulgarian spirit, national memory and patriotic self-awareness.
Dobarsko was first mentioned in 1378 in the Rila Charter of Tsar Ivan Shishman under the name Gnidobradsko.
In the 17th century, the village was renamed Nedobarsko.
More data about the village exists from the 16th - 18th centuries. The monastic school in the village provided priests and teachers for the entire region.
The current name was adopted only in 1912.
How do you get to the church "St. St. Theodore Tyrone and Theodore Stratilates"?
It is best to set the location of the church to your navigation.
You can leave your car near the entrance to the site.
And finally, my dear friends,
you shouldn't miss checking out
the special photo album with moments –
discovered, experienced, filmed and shared with you!
I have collected the wonderful photo moments that I captured in the late medieval church "St. St. Theodore Tyron and Theodore Stratilates" in the village of Dobarsko, Blagoevgrad region, in a special photo album, which you can view here:
I have collected the wonderful divine beauty that I captured around Dobarsko in a special photo album called "The Gift of God", which you can view here:
You are reading an ad-free blog – fully focused on the content!
I remind you that you can read all my posts here – in "Photo Moments", without being interrupted by a single annoying ad, because "Photo Moments" is a place without ads!
I made the important decision to make "Photo Moments" ad-free so that my site can load much faster, the content I present to you can be as clean as possible, and your experience in "Photo Moments" can be the best possible!
If you appreciate everything I do, you can support me HERE or by following the gold star below.
Thank you!
Comments