Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" - a popular cultural center, educational center and hotbed of patriotic and freedom-loving spirit
- Stefan Ivanov
- Jun 19
- 16 min read
Updated: Jul 22
Once upon a time, a long, long time ago, there lived a brave Bulgarian warrior – a dragon slayer. His name was Michael.
He was a devout Christian – from a good family, inhabiting the Bulgarian stronghold – Potuka, located near Philippopolis (present-day Plovdiv).
Michael the Warrior was the commander of a military unit with the title of primikure and, together with his faithful warriors, distinguished himself brilliantly in the war against the Muslims.
It so happened that on his way home, Michael the Warrior stopped to spend the night in a distant village that was being harassed by a terrifying dragon.
The brave warrior killed the dragon and freed the village and its inhabitants from the terrible scourge.
Seriously wounded in the battle with the dragon, Michael the Warrior returned home to Potuka, where he soon died of his severe wounds.
After the Fourth Crusade (1202–1204), on April 13, 1204, Constantinople was captured, the lands of Byzantium were divided, the Latin Empire was created, and the French knight Rainier de Tri was assigned the region of Philippopolis, becoming Duke of Philippopolis, creating the Duchy of Philippopolis.
During this period, Philippopolis and the region were often the subject of conflicts between the Latin Empire and the restored Bulgarian Kingdom. Tsar Kaloyan actively fought for control of Thrace.
In 1206, when the Bulgarian Tsar Kaloyan captured Philippopolis, he ordered the relics of Michael the Warrior to be solemnly transferred from Potuka to the capital Tarnovgrad, where they were laid in the church of the Forty Martyrs, and then in the patriarchal cathedral of the Ascension of the Lord.
On the way to the capital Tarnovgrad, the procession stops to spend the night in the Tsarkvishteto area by the roaring waters of the Dryanovska River, which have picturesquely dissected the limestone rocks, sculpting three steep rock crowns - today's Boruna from the south, Strinava from the east and Polichki from the west.
At this place, Kaloyan of the Asen dynasty, the youngest brother of Ivan Asen I and Theodore Peter, crowned by Cardinal Leo as rex Bulgarorum et Blachorum, making him the only Bulgarian ruler with the Catholic title of king, given to him by the Holy See in Rome, gave the order to erect the holy monastery, whose history from then on was filled with drama.
There is a legend that it was here that Kaloyan was crowned, and later his wedding with the Cuman queen took place here again.
The location is no coincidence.
The entire area is a strategic hub region through which the Stara Planina passes are controlled, and for this purpose powerful Bulgarian bastions have been erected nearby - the fortresses "Boruna" and "Gradat", the hubs guarding the approaches to the Bulgarian capital Tarnovgrad from the south.
The monastery functioned until 1393, when it was first burned by the Ottoman hordes invading the north, heralding the end of the Second Bulgarian Empire.
In those dark and difficult times, the holy monastery was rebuilt again, but on the other bank of the Dryanovska River, where we still find it today.
Over time, the Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" became a popular cultural center - an educational center in the depths of the Central Stara Planina Mountains and a hotbed of a patriotic and freedom-loving spirit.
Ancient manuscripts are kept here, a library with a scriptorium is collected, where the monks - writers copied Paisius' "History of Slavs and Bulgaria", organized a church school and a room for ancient objects found in the surrounding fortresses, in order to ignite feelings of patriotism and national pride among their numerous students.
The church "St. Archangel Michael" was built in 1845. The church is made of stone, dug into the ground, domeless with an octagonal bell tower.
In 1861, the single-nave church "Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary" was built.
As a small stone inscription built above the main entrance door informs us, the holy monastery was once again devastated and plundered on May 10, 1876.
Like a number of other monastery churches from the mid-19th century, the temple would have had three domes – two above the nave and one below the altar.
This primary structure can be judged primarily by the still preserved small blind dome above the altar, which after the reconstruction is barely visible on the sloping roof. The former existence of the other two domes is suggested by the intermediate arch that divides the nave into two parts with a square outline.
Four pendentives were built to each square, which today carry blind domes – a circumstance that means that initially domes with drums were erected in this place.
The outer faces of the walls are smooth. Only a frieze of shallow single-stepped niches, supported by roughly profiled stone consoles, runs high along the upper part of the walls.
After the reconstruction of 1880, the church was not plastered, but as the rough stone masonry and other similar Renaissance churches show, it was originally plastered and whitewashed.
Four double-winged windows, located on each of the longitudinal walls, illuminate the church, and two doors, one of which - the main one, is on the western wall, and the other - on the northern wall, gave access to the original church.
In the thirties of the 20th century, the church was enriched, with a slender bell tower attached to its western wall, and an arched narthex to the northern one, sheltering the remaining northern wall below it. The bell tower, whose hidden structure is made of reinforced concrete, is completely maintained in the spirit of Renaissance architecture. Its silhouette and details are aptly reminiscent of the churches of the first master Kolyo Ficheto.
The elongated shape of the monastery courtyard is determined by the outlines of the alluvial strip deposited by the river flowing at the bottom of the gorge.
At its southern end, the courtyard significantly expands, at the northern end it lengthens into a narrow passage, at the end of which a wide arched gate opens, drilled into the ground floor of the reception building.
Immediately to the eastern side of the gate stretches an elongated farm building. Its construction of stone and wood gives the monastery courtyard a warmer and more picturesque appearance.
Particularly romantic are the buildings on the western side of the courtyard, whose high basement floors are washed by the water of the river. Here a small arched door crosses the wall of a low canopy and leads across a wooden bridge to the meadow beyond the river.
In the upper, slightly elevated slope of the yard, right next to the apse of the church, there is a two-story abbess's house, while the actual farmyard remains to the south of the church. The monastery also houses a modest exhibition of icons, housed in a small building near the church bell tower.
"Monasteries in Bulgaria"
Lyuben Prashkov, Elka Bakalova, Stefan Boyadzhiev
1876
The history of the Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" is closely connected with the struggles of the Bulgarian people for national freedom.
Behind the monastery walls, the Apostle of Freedom Vasil Levski, together with the national awakening leader - Father Matei Preobrazhenski - Mitkaloto created the main center for preparing the national uprising in the Tarnovo region.
After the outbreak of the April Uprising, two hundred fearless Chetniks, led by the legendary priest Khariton, the military leader Petar Parmakov and the public teacher Bacho Kiro, resisted for nine days against the onslaught of the numerous Turkish army, led by Brigadier General Fazlı Pasha, and the Bashibazouk hordes.
The siege of Dryanovo Monastery was one of the most important battles during those memorable events of the summer of 1876.
On May 2, 1876, when the gunpowder warehouse was accidentally set on fire, priest Khariton was blinded. The Chetniks elected as their voivode and leader Petar Parmakov, a graduate of the Odessa Military School, who addressed the Chetniks, declaring:
Comrades, we are surrounded by an enemy army, by Circassians and Bashibazouks, but is there anything to fear?
What can scare us?
Death?
But is there a greater joy than dying for the freedom of your fatherland?
On May 7, 1876, an Ottoman army arrived from Shumen under the command of Brigadier General Fazlı Pasha, who dictated an ultimatum to the rebels:
Comrades, listen to my words and surrender, because it will not be long before the monastery will be reduced to dust and ashes and you will be in my hands.
Bacho Kiro sends him a reply:
The people want their justice and are determined to win it, even if it means death...
We are determined to die and we will keep our oath.
Soon two large German cannons were delivered, took up position and headed towards the monastery. The shells exploded with a bang, the three domes of the church collapsed, and the massive stone walls surrounding the place collapsed.
Blackened by smoke, hungry, sleepless and exhausted, the rebels attempted to break through the siege. Coming out of the monastery, they encountered a strong Turkish unit and after a fierce battle only a small group managed to break free from the siege.
Some of the rebels who survived the bloody massacre returned to the monastery. Some of them died on the spot, others were hanged, and still others drowned in the forests and only a small part of them survived.
Out of a total of 200 people, the teacher Bacho Kiro and 45 other rebels managed to escape by breaking through the Turkish ranks.
After the defeat of the rebellion, the monastery was burned. The entire monastery library also burned, along with important books and manuscripts.
To commemorate the heroic deeds of the freedom fighters, a modest ossuary monument was erected in a prominent place north of the church.
On April 3, 1877, part of the monastery was restored. The temple has no frescoes, it remains with holes in the walls and a chalice pierced by a bullet. These marks were deliberately left in the new construction to remind of those memorable events that took place in the summer of 1876.
On June 20, 1880, the monastery was restored almost in the form in which we see it today.
In 1897, on the site of the Assumption Church built in 1861, a monument-ossuary was erected to the fallen rebels during the tragic events of the April Epic of 1876.
Exposition "Archaeology and Revival" at the Historical Museum - Dryanovo
Currently, the "Archaeology and Revival" exhibition of the Historical Museum - Dryanovo is housed in the Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael".
The "Archaeology and Revival" exposition at the Historical Museum - Dryanovo introduces museum visitors to the historical development of the Dryanovo region and the emergence of the Dryanovo Monastery.
In its vicinity, one of the most ancient Paleolithic settlements in Central Europe and traces of local Eneolithic and Bronze Age cultures, as well as fortresses and settlements built in different historical eras, have been discovered.
Various documents and objects emphasize the importance of the monastery for Bulgarian history and the preservation of the national spirit, for its transformation into a Revival pilgrimage center, its designation as a base for the liberation movement and refuge during the April Uprising of the detachment of priest Khariton, and for Dryanovo's contribution to the Russo-Turkish War (1877 - 1878).
The main part of the museum exhibition in the sanctuary is dedicated to the April Uprising.
Currently, "St. Archangel Michael" is an active, male monastery. The monastery offers accommodation and food.
Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" has been declared an architectural and historical complex and a cultural monument of national importance.
The Church of St. Archangel Michael has been declared an artistic monument of culture of national importance.
Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" is site number 22 of the Hundred National Tourist Sites of Bulgaria.
How to get to Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael"?
Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" is located in Northern Bulgaria, about 5 kilometers southwest of the town of Dryanovo and about 15 kilometers northeast of the town of Gabrovo.
A good asphalt road leads to it.
It is served by the "Bacho Kiro" railway station, which until October 20, 1949 was named "Saint Archangel", on the "Ruse-Momchilgrad" railway line. The railway station is located about a kilometer from the monastery.
You can leave your car by the road leading to the monastery, where no parking fee is required.
Near the Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael", as well as directly in the parking lot in front of the entrance to the monastery, parking is paid.
What can you see in the area of Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael"?
After exploring the Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" and the rich exposition of the Historical Museum - Dryanovo, pass the Church of "St. Archangel Michael" and head to the small and narrow door in the back of the monastery.
Coming out of it, climb onto the bridge built over the waters of the Dryanovska River.
There is a narrow path starting to the left of the bridge and winding along the river. At a normal pace, in between 5 and 10 minutes you will find yourself in front of the Sini Vir waterfall.
After enjoying the Sini Vir waterfall, you can continue towards the Andaka River canyon, the natural landmark Bacho Kiro cave and the Dryanovo eco-trail.
For this purpose, you need to return to the starting point of the trail. A few meters from this place, the waters of the Andaka River flow into the Dryanovska River, and across the way you will see a second bridge, which is called "Lovers' Bridge".
Dozens of locked padlocks hang on the railings of the bridge, inscribed with the names of the lovers who hung them here.
Walk along it, passing the restaurant. You will find yourself on the path leading towards the canyon of the Andaka River, the natural landmark Bacho Kiro Cave and the Dryanovo Eco-Trail.
The Andaka River is a small river in the Pre-Balkans, a left tributary of the Dryanovo River.
The gorge that the Andaka River forms in the area of the limestone plateau Strazhata from the Andaka Cave to the place where its waters flow into the Dryanovska River, although small in size, is fabulously beautiful. The river is dotted with numerous wonderful waterfalls, which, especially in spring, are extremely beautiful and full of water.
The path winding along the river will take you to Bacho Kiro Cave - a natural landmark and an architectural and construction monument of culture from Antiquity and the Middle Ages.
The natural landmark Bacho Kiro Cave is a complex four-story labyrinth of cave galleries and branches with a total area of about 3,600 square meters, which makes it one of the largest caves in Bulgaria.
The beautiful Dryanovo Eco-Trail starts from the entrance to the cave.
The Dryanovska eco-trail winds along the Boruna rock ridge and leads to the Bench of Love, from where a majestic panorama of the picturesque canyon of the Dryanovska River opens up.
6 kilometers northeast of the Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael" (about 8 minutes by car) is the town of Dryanovo.
How to get to the town of Dryanovo?
Dryanovo (spelling until 1945: Drѣnovo) is a town located at the foot of the Stara Planina Mountains, in Central Northern Bulgaria.
It is located in the Gabrovo region, at the crossroads between Northern and Southern Bulgaria, near the cities of Veliko Tarnovo, Tryavna, Gabrovo and Sevlievo.
The town is the administrative center of the Dryanovo municipality.
Dryanovo is located on:
212 kilometers (about 2 hours and 48 minutes by car) from the capital
156 kilometers (about 2 hours and 46 minutes by car) from the city of Plovdiv
244 kilometers (about 2 hours and 57 minutes by car) from the city of Varna
227 kilometers (about 2 hours and 40 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
Dryanovo is located among the beautiful and rounded hills of the Central Fore-Balkans, on both banks of the Dryanovska River, a right tributary of the Yantra River.
The name of the town comes from the dogwood tree, which symbolizes the tenacious and unyielding spirit of the local mountaineers.
The name of the town comes from the dogwood tree, which symbolizes the tenacious and unyielding spirit of the local mountaineers.
On the territory of the municipality is the continuation of the Mikrenski Heights – the rocky limestone plateau of Strazhata, cut through by the bizarre gorges of the Yantra River and the Dryanovska River.
The altitude varies from 180 to 640 meters above sea level. The highest point in the region is Balabana – over 620 meters above sea level.
The city is located on the highway Ruse - Veliko Tarnovo - Gabrovo - Shipka - Stara Zagora. The station is on the main railway artery connecting Northern and Southern Bulgaria - Ruse - Gorna Oryahovitsa - Dabovo - Podkova.
In the Dryanovo region, the oldest traces of life on the Balkan Peninsula were discovered - in the natural landmark Bacho Kiro cave near the Dryanovo Monastery "St. Archangel Michael".
Numerous remains of ancient settlements, fortresses, columns with inscriptions and decorations from the time of the Thracians and Romans have also been found.
During the Ottoman rule, Dryanovo managed to preserve the Bulgarian spirit, with Dryanovo's spiritual centers being among the great guardians of the Christian faith and Bulgarian writing, traditions, and culture.
The old monastery school, located in the courtyard of the Bulgarian National Revival church "Holy Trinity" in Dryanovo, dates back to the first half of the 19th century and awaits every visitor to reveal its carefully guarded secrets.
In 1778, a clock tower was built in the center of Dryanovo, which was destroyed twice.
Dryanovo masters and builders were extremely prominent and worked in various parts of the empire, and even beyond its borders. This gives grounds to speak of a Dryanovo building school.
Undoubtedly, even today, the most famous Dryanovec and prominent representative of the school is Nikola Fichev, better known as Master Kolyu Ficheto.
The city's Historical Museum presents in an extremely interesting and impressive way the work of the most eminent Dryanovo resident and Bulgarian Renaissance builder through the exciting and inspiring exhibition "Kolyu Ficheto - Life and Creativity" - a unique visual spectacle about the self-taught intuitive Renaissance genius.
In his native Dryanovo, master Kolyu Ficheto built several houses - Hadzhigencheva, Hadzhistaneva and Ikonomovova.
Today, the Iconomov House is an architectural and construction monument of culture of national importance, which you can visit.
In his native Dryanovo in 1951, master Nikola Fichev built the church "St. Nicholas".
Today the temple is an architectural, construction and artistic monument of culture of national importance, which you can visit.
In Dryanovo, the master builder also built the stone bridge over the Dryanovo River, which is located in the southwestern part of the city in the Boyuv Dam neighborhood.
The bridge connects "Dosyo Stoynov" and "Pop Khariton" streets and you can also cross it today.
What you can visit nearby?
Just 21 kilometers south of the town of Dryanovo (about 25 minutes by car) is the town of Gabrovo. In Gabrovo, you must visit the Architectural and Ethnographic Complex and Open-Air Museum "Etar".
Just 16 kilometers from the city of Gabrovo (about 26 minutes by car) you will find the charming jewel of Bozhentsi, which you should definitely visit.
Just 22 kilometers east of Gabrovo (about 34 minutes by car) is beautiful Tryavna, which I definitely recommend you visit.
About 23 kilometers south of the city of Gabrovo (about 34 minutes by car) is the Freedom Monument, known as the Shipka Monument.
About 48 kilometers south of the city of Gabrovo (about 58 minutes by car) is the city of Kazanlak.
In Kazanlak you can visit the Rose Museum.
After you have viewed the rich exhibition of the museum, I suggest you take a relaxing walk through the wonderful alleys of the Rosarium Park in the town of Kazanlak.
In the town of Kazanlak, I suggest you also visit the church of St. Elijah, also known as the Kulenska Church.
Just 5 kilometers south of the town of Kazanlak (about 8 minutes by car) is the village of Buzovgrad, where the wonderful adventure of the "Path through the Ages" eco-trail begins.
You shouldn't miss it for anything in the world!
48 kilometers east of Kazanlak (about 40 minutes by car) you will find the Zhrebchevo Dam. The ruins of the submerged church of St. Ivan Rilski still stand near the dam.
23 kilometers west of Kazanlak (about 25 minutes by car) you will find the town of Pavel Banya.
3 kilometers east of Pavel Banya (about 5 minutes by car) you will find the village of Viden. Near the village still stand the ruins of the wonderful church of St. Anastasius.
4 kilometers south of Pavel Banya (about 7 minutes by car) is the village of Turia.
Here you can visit the birthplace of Chudomir.
On the square in front of Chudomir's house you can see a monument to the Chetnik Tsanko Minkov Dechev - Komitata, who was born in Turia Botev.
In Turia you can enjoy an authentic Roman bridge called "Skoca".
8 kilometers from Turia (about 9 minutes by car) you can enjoy the natural landmark "Kichest Gabbar".
Very close to "Kichest Gabar" you can explore Kutela.
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