Dear friends of "Photo Moments", I would like to share with you a summer, green, very fresh and so pleasant walk around the sub-Balkan town of Karlovo, located in the southern foothills of Stara Planina.
The city is located between 392 meters above sea level and 612 meters above sea level in the northern part of Karlovsko Pole, which is formed in the southwest of Stara Planina, in the north of Sštinska Sredna Gora and in the northeast of Sarnena Sredna Gora.
The mountainous area of Koznitsa (next to the town of Klisura) separates the Strem Valley from the neighboring Trans-Balkan valleys to the west, and to the east it is separated by Krastets (Strajata). This geographical location has an important role for the climate of the city and the surrounding Rose Valley.
The climate is transitional-continental with a strong influence of Stara Planina, which stops the cold air masses from the north.
Snow cover is unstable and has recently become increasingly rare. It remains for a short time during the year and rarely exceeds 10 cm - 15 cm. All this is due to the restraining effect of the cold air masses from Stara Planina and the softening effect of the nearby Stryama River.
The oldest traces of life found in the land of today's Karlovo date back to the New Stone (Neolithic) era - around the fourth millennium BC.
History
A Neolithic settlement existed in the area of Yas Tepe, west of Karlovo.
In the Middle Ages, several settlements existed here, one of which was located in the Saint Panteleimon area, and it is assumed that this is the medieval Bulgarian Sushitsa. A medieval necropolis was discovered in the western part of the city in the "Bademlika" district.
The medieval monastery "Sveti Spas" was located nearby.
In the 70s of the 14th century, the Karlov Valley was conquered by the Ottoman Turks.
Around 1482 - 1485, the sub-Balkan village of Sushitsa was given by Sultan Bayazid II as a possession (mulk) to Karl Zade Lala Ali Bey. In 1496, Ali Bey turned this possession into a waqf.
According to the founding document of the foundation, the land of Sushitsa is bordered to the north by Stara Planina, to the east by the village of Arabla, to the south by the Gyopsu River (today's Stryama) and to the west by the village of Akche Klise (Byala Cherkva or today Sopot).
During the next century, Sušitsa grew rapidly. According to Ottoman documents from 1516 there were seven Muslim and 42 Christian households, and in 1596 - 117 Muslim and 162 Christian households. The income from the waqf amounted to 5,997 aksetas in 1516 and 23,596 aksetas in 1596. Thus, the village grew into a town, which after the name of Karl Zade Ali Bey began to be called Karl'ova - land of Karl and later Karlovo.
In 1485, Karl Zade Ali Bey built the oldest preserved building in Karlovo - Kurshum Mosque (Lead Mosque), so named because of its lead roof, with materials from the destroyed "Sveti Spas" monastery. The mosque is supported by funds from the Ali Bey Waqf.
In the 17th century, the famous writer Avram Erei worked here. In July 1660, he finished the minae and in 1669 copied a gospel, which is kept in the Zograf monastery.
The city reached the peak of its economic and spiritual prosperity during the Renaissance.
Around 1807, a teacher in the city was Atanas Vlados, a tinsmith from Veles. After him, Nikola Bitolaets and Neno Kelesh were teachers. The educational work in Karlovo reached its heyday when in 1828, daskal Raino Popovich settled as a teacher in the town. In the city, Popovich taught continuously for about 25 years.
In 1837, Vasil Ivanov Kunchev - Levski was born in Karlovo, national revolutionary, organizer of the national liberation movement, creator of the Internal Revolutionary Organization, organizer of the committee network with the aim of liberating Bulgaria from Turkish slavery.
In 1859, Metropolitan Paisiy of Plovdiv ordained Vasil Levski as a hierodeacon in the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary church.
In the period from 1953 to 1962, Karlovo was called Levskigrad.
I am standing in front of the monument of Vasil Levski.
This is where I will start my walk. This is where I will start my story.
Monument to Vasil Levski
The Vasil Levski monument in the city of Karlovo has been declared an immovable cultural asset (cultural monument) with the category of national importance - architectural and constructional cultural monument.
The monument is located on Vasil Levski Square in the center of the Old Town. It was built according to a design by the sculptor Marin Vassilev between May 15, 1903, when the foundation stone was laid in the presence of Prince Ferdinand, and 1907.
The Deacon of Freedom is depicted in full length with a revolver in his hand, uttering a fiery speech, and next to him is a roaring lion, symbolizing the Bulgarian people.
The lower part of the monument lists the names of residents of Karlovo who died in the struggle for the liberation of Bulgaria in July and August 1877.
Under the pedestal are three reliefs - "Creation of a Revolutionary Committee", "The Capture of Levski" and "Expulsion of Karlovo Rebels from the Residence".
How do you get to the monument to Vasil Levski?
On the following map I have marked the exact location of the monument to Vasil Levski.
Opposite the Levski monument is the Church of St. Nicholas, built in 1847. In the courtyard of the church is the grave of Gina Kuncheva, mother of Vasil Levski.
Opposite the church is the Historical Museum - Karlovo, which is housed in the beautiful building of the Fifth Grade Boys' School, built in 1871 on the site of the mutual school, where Vasil Levski studied from 1846 to 1848. The museum is part of the 100 national tourist sites and in it you can learn interesting things about the history, crafts and lifestyle of Karlovo and the region.
I am in the old part of Karlovo, a place known as the Old Town or Starinno Karlovo. From the monument of Vasil Levski and "Vasil Levski" square, I continue my walk along "Vasil Levski" street in the direction north and the Balkan.
The next stop on my Karlovo adventure are two houses located next to each other. They are part of the Ethnographic Complex "Old Karlovo" - an architectural reserve that unites emblematic buildings for the city - cultural monuments of invaluable historical and aesthetic value.
Pateva Maaza – a piece of history from "Old Karlovo"
Pateva Maaza in the city of Karlovo has been declared an immovable cultural asset (cultural monument) with the category of national importance - an architectural, construction and artistic monument of culture. Come to a world that has hidden and preserved that inimitable urban Revival atmosphere, which is still alive here, and which will deeply touch you, captivate you and keep you for a long time.
Dear friends of "Photo Moments", I have prepared a separate and independent publication for Pateva Maaza, which you will find by following the indicated link.
Prepare yourself, because I will take you to a world of history and courage, of bold courage and love for the fatherland; you will learn more about Vasil Genchov Karaivanov – a relative of Levski, a Bulgarian Revivalist and an enthusiastic patriot.
On the right is the entrance to Pateva House.
Pateva House – with the scent of roses from "Old Karlovo"
Dear friends of "Photo Moments", I have prepared a separate and independent publication for Pateva House, which you will find at the indicated link.
Prepare yourself, because I will take you to a world of charm and grace, of beauty and love; to a world of lushly landscaped Karlovo courtyards and ancient fountains.
I continue my walk along Vasil Levski Street in the direction of the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary - the oldest church in the city.
In the church, Levski served as hierodeacon Ignatius. A rare photograph of him is kept in the Sunday school at the church.
Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
The Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the town of Karlovo has been declared an immovable cultural asset (cultural monument) with the category of national significance - an architectural, construction and artistic monument of culture.
The construction of the church was completed in 1851 by master Atanas Maznev from Bratsigovo.
The temple is a three-nave basilica with one apse and three vaults. The iconostasis is made of walnut wood.
There are no frescoes in the church, but there are original and restored icons by representatives of the Samokov art school such as Stanislav Dospevski. The granite columns have been restored, and the pulpit has a special status.
The royal doors, the bishop's throne and the iconostasis are the work of the Debar master Anton Stanishev.
The oldest Karlovo church "Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary", the high school and the old stone fountain in front of the church form a nice small and very beautiful square, which historians and architects agree on - this is the spiritual center of Karlovo.
The old stone fountain
An old stone fountain has stood in the middle of the square for almost 250 years, the maker of which remains unknown to this day.
Even today, the old stone foundation bears the years 1775 – the year of its construction – and 1896.
Opposite the fountain stands Buhalov Han - another part of the "Ancient Karlovo" Ethnographic Complex.
Buhalov Han – with lots of love from "Starinno Karlovo"
Dear friends of "Photo Moments", I have prepared a separate and independent publication for Buhalov Khan, which you will find at the indicated link.
Prepare yourself, because you will be overwhelmed with love! Love for Bulgarian traditions and crafts, love for embroidery and lace, love for woven rugs and costumes, love for embroidery, weaving and pottery, and most of all – love for work and for Bulgaria!
And while you enjoy all this love, shaped and served with great care, why not try the aromatic, sand-made coffee or the pink rose liqueur? Try the wonderful and colorful Turkish delight or eat the gyulovitsa. Dip your fingers in the rose jam, fig jam or white jam or pour yourself a homemade lemonade.
I continue along the narrow and old cobblestone street. My next goal is the house of teacher Rayno Popovich - part of the Ethnographic Complex "Old Karlovo".
"Rayno Popovich" House - a memory of the teacher, writer and enlightener Rayno Sabev Stoyanov
The house of Rayno Popovic has been declared an immovable cultural asset (cultural monument) with a category of national importance - architectural, construction, historical and folk antiquity.
Dear friends of "Photo Moments", I have prepared a separate and independent publication for the house of teacher Rayno Popovich, which you will find at the indicated link.
Get ready, because I will introduce you to the house of the teacher, writer and national revivalist Rayno Popovich, telling you a story about love of learning! Rayno Popovich's students were Georgi Rakovski, Petar Beron, Gavril Krastevich, the brothers Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi, Botyo Petkov, father of Hristo Botev. It is said that in this house Vasil Levski sang his first hymns.
I am walking down the street and on the left I see a monument to Ivan Bogorov, born in Karlovo - a prominent Bulgarian encyclopedist from the Bulgarian National Revival, creator of a Bulgarian newspaper, honorary member of the Bulgarian Literary Society (today the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, 1884).
Ivan Bogorov is one of the most convinced Bulgarian purists and has been fighting for decades against the introduction of foreigners into the language, especially against Greekisms, as well as against the influx of numerous Russianisms into the emerging Bulgarian literary language. He is a doctor by education, but he also deals with industry, economics, business issues, transport, geography, journalism and linguistics.
"Vasil Levski" Street leads me to Kurshum Mosque.
Kurshum (Kurshun) Mosque
Kurshum (Kurshun) Mosque has been declared an immovable cultural asset (cultural monument) with a category of national significance - architectural, historical and artistic.
The Bullet Mosque (Turkish: Kurşunlu Camii, Lead Mosque) is a defunct Muslim temple located in Democracy Park at the intersection of General Gurko Street and General Kartsov Boulevard. It is the oldest surviving building in the city.
The building has been extensively renovated and is currently a museum, officially opened on March 13, 2024.
Opposite the museum is a monument to the brothers Evlogi and Hristo Georgiev.
Monument to brothers Evlogi and Hristo Georgiev
The monument to the Karlovo brothers was inaugurated on October 5, 2014. A donation campaign was organized to erect it in the city center, involving people from all over Bulgaria.
The monument is the work of sculptor Boris Borisov. Until now, the brothers had only one monument erected in front of Sofia University with their own funds.
History remembers them as prominent Bulgarian public figures and benefactors, major merchants and bankers. Born in Karlovo, the two received their initial education in their hometown.
The brothers' donations made it possible after the Liberation to build Sofia University, to have a Bulgarian hospital in Constantinople, monasteries and churches. Although they live in Romania, they always wanted to see a free Bulgaria.
The brothers also took an active part in the political life of the Bulgarian emigration in Romania. They were among the founders of the "Virtuous Company", which recruited Bulgarian volunteers to participate in the Crimean War, carried out large-scale activities for the development of Bulgarian education and culture, and provided support to a number of Bulgarian schools, community centers, literary endeavors, and individual scholarship holders.
I'm heading towards July 20th Square.
July 20th Square
The central Karlovo Square is named so because of the tragic events that took place in the village during the Russo-Turkish War of Liberation in 1877, known as "The Terrible".
On July 20, 1877, mass murders and robberies began, carried out by the regular Turkish army and bashibozuks from the surrounding villages.
The atrocities continued until the liberation of the city at the end of 1877.
Today, a monument has been erected on July 20th Square in memory of the numerous victims.
The building of the former Bulgarian National Bank, located next to July 20th Square, is also beautiful.
From the square I head north along Vodopada Street. The incredible posture of the Balkan is a sight with which I always associate my walk along this Karlovo street.
A walk with a view all the time of the majestic southern slopes of the proud Balkan is an incomparable pleasure that I love to do every time I visit Levski's hometown.
Here I am in front of an interesting object.
This is a bronze 3D model "Karlovo in the palm of your hand", depicting significant historical and cultural monuments located in the town of Karlovo.
I soon find myself within the green and peaceful Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi Park, through which the Stara Reka River flows.
Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi Park
The park is green and peaceful, formed along the bed of the Stara Reka River and at the very foot of the Balkan Mountains.
Fitness equipment and slides with swings for the little ones have been built.
The stone animals located throughout the park delight the little ones.
Surely you and your children will be fascinated by this wonderful place.
Opposite the park, you can still see the factory of the brothers Evlogi and Hristo Georgiev, located on the northern outskirts of the city at 70 Todor Kableshkov Street.
Factory of the brothers Evlogi and Hristo Georgiev
The woolen textile factory of Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi has been declared a group monument of culture and architectural construction.
It holds the category of "local importance" as a production and technical complex.
It was built with funds from Evlogi Georgiev in 1891. It was donated to the Karlovo City Municipality for the maintenance of local schools.
Opposite the factory is a monument to the first Bulgarian to climb an eight-thousander.
Monument to Hristo Prodanov
Hristo Prodanov was born on February 24, 1943 in Karlovo. He graduated from the Higher Institute of Chemical Technology in Sofia. He worked as a metallurgical engineer in Pernik and at the Kremikovtzi metallurgical plant.
He has been involved in mountaineering since his teenage years. In 1961 he graduated from the Central Mountain School (CMS) "Malyovitsa". He has made numerous climbs in the mountains of Bulgaria, as well as in the Alps, Olympus, Caucasus, Pamir, Hindu Kush, and Himalayas.
He was the first Bulgarian to set foot on an eight-thousander – Lhotse (8516 m) in 1981, and the first Bulgarian to climb the highest peak on Earth – Everest (8848 m) in 1984.
He died while descending back to base camp on April 22, 1984.
He was posthumously awarded the Order and the honorary title "Hero of the People's Republic of Bulgaria".
Hristo Prodanov is the 155th climber to climb Everest. He is the 13th to climb without oxygen, and the first to climb the West Ridge without oxygen. Prodanov is the first climber to climb the peak in April, when climbing conditions are very difficult.
Suchurum Waterfall
Nearby is a charming natural landmark, which is my next goal – the beautiful, very noisy and so lush Suchurum waterfall.
Suchurum is one of several impressive waterfalls on the Stara Reka River – a twenty-kilometer river, a left tributary of the Stryama River.
The Stara Reka River originates under the name Golyamata Reka (Big River) at an altitude of 1942 meters. It flows from the northern foot of Ravnets Hill in the Kalofer Mountains – a part of the Stara Planina Mountains. At first it flows north, then west and southwest, and then south – in a deep valley with a large slope.
Before entering the town of Karlovo, the Stara Reka forms a beautiful waterfall, known as the Karlovski Waterfall and Suchurum.
Until June 29, 1942, the waterfall was officially known as Karlovski Suchurum.
Later, Karlovski Suchurum was renamed the Waterfall, but today it is still called only Suchurum, which means flying water.
In the register of protected territories and protected areas in Bulgaria, the Suchurum Waterfall is a protected territory of the natural landmark category.
From the Suchurum Waterfall I head towards the Vasil Levski National Museum, which is located in the town of Karlovo at 57 General Kartsov Street.
The clock tower
On my way to the museum, I pass by the restored old clock tower of Karlovo, located near the Vasil Levski National Museum.
During the Bulgarian National Revival, the clock tower stood in the middle of a large square, from which the Karlovo bazaar extended to the Kurshum Mosque. In the 1930s, the space was rebuilt and new streets were built, and in 1944 the tower was demolished because it interfered with the new urban planning.
I'll be in front of the museum soon.
National Museum "Vasil Levski"
The Vasil Levski National Museum includes the restored birthplace of the Deacon of Freedom, along with the newly built exhibition hall and chapel.
In the years after the Liberation, the original house was abandoned and began to fall into ruin.
The Vasil Levski House-Museum in the town of Karlovo has been declared an immovable cultural asset (cultural monument) with the category of national importance - architectural, construction and historical value.
In 1933, the house was restored and in 1937 it began to operate as a museum. In 1955, an exhibition hall was built next to it, where items, documents and paintings related to Vasil Levski are exhibited.
In the 1990s, the Chardakli House and the memorial chapel "All Bulgarian Saints" were included in the museum.
Opposite the museum is another monument.
Monument to those repressed by the communist regime in Karlovo
Opposite the Vasil Levski National Museum, a monument to those repressed by the communist regime in Karlovo after September 9, 1944, stands.
How to get to the town of Karlovo?
Karlovo is a town located at the southern foot of the Stara Planina Mountains – in Plovdiv District.
It is located in South-Central Bulgaria near the Sub-Balkan Road*.
*The Republican Road I-6, also known as the Sub-Balkan Road, is a first-class road of the Republican Road Network of Bulgaria with a west-east direction, passing through the territory of nine districts: Kyustendil, Pernik, Sofia District, Sofia, Plovdiv, Stara Zagora, Sliven, Yambol and Burgas.
Its total length is 508.5 km, making it the longest republican road in Bulgaria.
The nearest town to Karlovo is the town of Sopot – located 5 kilometers (about 5 minutes by car) to the west.
Karlovo is located:
139 kilometers (about 2 hours and 11 minutes by car) from the capital
60 kilometers (about 1 hour by car) from the city of Plovdiv
356 kilometers (about 4 hours and 30 minutes by car) from the city of Varna
244 kilometers (about 2 hours and 44 minutes by car) from the city of Burgas
17 kilometers (about 17 minutes by car) from the city of Kalofer
Karlovo is the third largest city in Plovdiv District after the regional capital and Asenovgrad.
Karlovo is the administrative center of Karlovo Municipality.
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